Melaka Red Square: Dutch History & Colonial Treasures
Contents
Essential Travel Logistics: Getting to Melaka
Melaka is accessible by road (car and luxury coaches) and air from Singapore. Road, rail, air and ferries are options if you’re arriving in Melaka from within Malaysia. Melaka has an international airport for those flying from other countries.
Key Entry Requirements
- Malaysia Digital Arrival Card (MDAC): Prerequisite for most foreign nationals. An MDAC application can be made online here. Crucially, the application cannot be earlier than 72 hours before the planned travel date.
- Indian Visa Exemption: Indians are exempt from a Malaysian visa until December 2026, provided the stay does not exceed 30 days.
We had booked a luxury coach for the trip from Singapore to Melaka.
However, there was a last-minute cancellation from the coach service company. Scrambling for options, we used DayTrip to book a drop-off car from Singapore to Malacca. Our chauffeur was very helpful with the advice on the start time. An early start proved crucial for clearing the immigration checkpoints quickly on both the Singapore and Malaysian sides. The Singaporean immigration exit consisted of a cursory check of our passports, stamping of the exit details, and the return of our passports to us. On the Malaysian side, we were asked to provide our MDACs and passports, and a vehicle check was conducted. The passports were stamped to show that entry and movement were allowed in West Malaysia for 30 days. Our chauffeur told us that multi-hour traffic jams at the checkpoints are common on long weekends and Chinese holidays. If your plans fall on these days, keep this in mind.
Navigating Melaka: Walk, Grab, and Refill Points
We heard about the monorail and public buses being available in Melaka. But for the entire duration of our stay, we walked around Melaka, and for the more distant spots, we used Grab. Except on weekends, when finding cabs proved difficult due to the traffic jams, Grab worked very well for us.
You will also find brightly colored Trishaws, or in the local Malay tongue, ‘becas‘.
Places to See
A Touch of Home: Malacca’s Little India Heritage
This area, the heart of Melaka City, represents the legacy of the Indian diaspora who migrated in colonial times. It is the South Indian heritage that we mainly saw. Tamil songs from our childhood lilted through open doorways of restaurants and shops. The place felt frozen in time, and the close-knit feeling and old-school charm were unmistakable. We had visited the Little India in three places on this trip – Singapore, Malacca and Kuala Lumpur. Malacca was the closest to our hearts of the three Little Indias.
The Red Heart of Malacca: Exploring Dutch Square
The Dutch ruled Malacca as a colony between 1641 CE and 1825 CE. The Dutch Square, built during their reign with its red terracotta buildings and colonial-era architecture, is one of the most photographed locations in Malacca. This is the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Plan your Trip
- Construction date: Mid-17th century CE
- Timings: Open 24 h
- Entry fee: None
- Getting there: Walk/Grab/Trishaw (beca)
- Note: Start early to avoid the crowds at the Dutch Square. On the weekends, the market and food street are set up here in the evenings, drawing in large crowds. If you’re taking a cab or shared transport on weekend evenings, consider planning your drop-off near the entrance to Little India or the Muzium Samudera. The Dutch Square is a short walk from either of these places.
The Dutch Square has these key attractions:
The Stadthuys and Colonial Landmarks
- The Stadthuys: Originally the residence of Dutch governors and officials, it is the oldest Dutch building in the East, dating from 1650 CE. It houses a museum complex and a cafe. Brightly decorated Trishaws, or in the local Malay tongue, ‘becas‘, were parked outside the Stadthuys. Many becas featured popular themes such as Kuromi, Spiderman, Minions and so on, with loud music to match! We gave this a try to get from the Dutch Square to the Cheng Hoon Temple. It cost us about RM100 for two becas and took us about 20 minutes. My driver, a Chetty from Tamil Nadu (Chiti in Malay), whose ancestors had settled in Malacca three generations ago, chatted in Tamil the entire ride.
- Victoria Fountain: The British built the fountain in 1901 CE to commemorate the queen’s diamond jubilee. A couple of street musicians were busking near the fountain when we visited. Their sounds added to the laid-back vibes of the place.
- Christ Church Melaka: The Dutch built the church between 1741 CE and 1753 CE to commemorate a century of their colonial rule. A functional Anglican church with interesting elements like a giant white cross on the gable wall, a bell, and ceiling beams made from single tree trunks.
- Tan Beng Swee Clock Tower: A clock tower stands right outside the church, adjacent to the fountain. Although its architecture melds seamlessly with the colonial surroundings, it is a gift from the Chinese community of Malacca to their fellow townspeople. Tan Jiak Kim erected this in 1886 CE to fulfil the wishes of his father, Tan Beng Swee. This Chinese millionaire philanthropic family also contributed to the bridge near the clock tower, bearing the donor’s name – Tan Kim Seng. An interesting bit of trivia – the old clocks from England were replaced in 1982 CE with clocks from Seiko of Japan. This didn’t sit well with the senior citizens of Melaka, who still remember the hardships under the Japanese occupation of Malacca from 1941 CE to 1945 CE, during the Second World War.
- Melaka Windmill: A replica of a Dutch windmill and colourful cows in a pasture setting sit across the Stadthuys. This is a nod to the colonial ties to the Dutch, and is a nice spot for photography.
- 0 km Melaka Marker: This is a circle that serves as a roundabout in front of the Dutch square and marks the city’s centre. Inside the circle are flowering plants and four statues of mouse deer, the symbol of Malacca. The whimsical marker at the centre also shows distances from Malacca to the other cities of the world in the four cardinal directions.
- Middelburg Bastion: This is a bastion from 1660 CE, restored with cannons. The Dutch fortified the city after conquering it from the Portuguese in 1641 CE. Nine such bastions were built around A Fomosa, of which only this one survives. The bastion’s name is a reference to the city of Middelburg in the Netherlands. A short flight of stairs leads up to a quadrangle with embrasures to which cannons are fitted. The views are very picturesque – on one side, the Malacca River flows idly, and on the other side is the bustling night market. When we visited the bastion, a watercolour artist had a stall with prints of his works priced at RM20 each and was working on a fresh painting. We watched him paint for a while, and to remember our trip, we bought a print of his artwork as a special keepsake.
Before we tell you about the Museums of Melaka, here is some background on the history of Melaka so that you can appreciate the museums better.
Malacca’s Founding Legend and Sultanate Legacy
Malacca (Historic State of Malacca) is a state in the southern region of Malaysia. The founding legend of the state is tied to the founding of the Malacca Sultanate. Parameshwara, the last king of Singapura, fled to escape an invasion by an empire from present-day Java. The king, resting under an Indian gooseberry tree on the banks of the Malacca River, witnessed a miraculous event. His hound cornered a mouse deer, an animal known for its timidity. The mouse deer pushed the dog into the water and made away to safety. This courageous act of the mouse deer in its self-preservation was an omen for the king. He decided to establish his new empire at this location and name it after the tree under which he rested. The Indian Gooseberry or Myrobalan tree is called the Malacca tree (pokok melaka) in Malay. Thus, the city got its name from its namesake tree.
The Sultanate ended in 1511 with the Portuguese conquest, was conquered by the Dutch in 1641, and was taken over by the British in 1825. Finally, Malacca gained independence from the colonists along with the rest of Malaysia in 1957. Malacca has had long-standing trade relations with China (from the Ming dynasty) and several other European and Asian powers, thanks to its strategic location as a port. It was the centre of the spice trade, as evidenced by the quote, “Whoever is lord of Malacca has his hand on the throat of Venice”.
Deep Dive into History: The Stadthuys Museum Complex
Malacca’s city centre, known as the ‘Museum City’, is home to numerous fascinating museums covering a wide range of subjects. Of these, the Stadthuys was converted into a Museum complex and opened to the public in 1982 CE.
Plan your Trip
- Construction dates: 1641 CE and 1660 CE
- Timings: 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM (closed on Monday)
- Last entry: 4:30 PM
- Entry fees (Adults > 12 years): Malaysian: 10 RM; Non-Malaysian: 20 RM
- Getting there: Walk/Grab/Trishaw
- Note: Please visit this official website for the latest information on timings and entry fees.
The ticket grants admission to the following museums within the Stadthuys: the Museum of History and Ethnography, the Museum of Education, the Museum of Literature, the Malacca State TYT Museum, and the Admiral Cheng Ho Gallery. We skipped the Museum of Education and the TYT Museum. There was a fascinating exhibit of miniatures in the History and Ethnography Museum. It showcased the traditional attire, ways of life, and unique cuisines of the diverse cultures that have made Malacca their home. The museum also discusses the events from the founding of the Sultanate by Parameshwara to gaining independence from the British. There is an imposing statue of Admiral Cheng Ho in the courtyard of the museum. The Cheng Ho gallery was a treasure trove of artefacts and maps from the initial days of the Sultanate, demonstrating the close political and trade ties between Malacca and the Ming dynasty. The Literature Museum had exhibits of prose and poetry writers from Malaysia who had been honoured within the country and globally. The museums are a must-see for history buffs and those interested in the origins of modern-day Malaysia.
The Portuguese and Malay Heritage: St. Paul’s Hill
A Famosa and St. Paul’s Church Ruins
Our next stop was the only remaining gate of the original Portuguese fortress. Named A Famosa, the fortress was built in 1512 CE by the Portuguese under Afonso de Albuquerque. The fortress was destroyed by the British when they took control of Malacca from the Dutch in 1806 CE. After taking a few photos of the ruins, we headed to St. Paul’s Church. The Portuguese built this church atop a hill, with commanding views of Malacca.
Halfway up the hill, we found a watercolour artist had set up shop and was selling his prints for RM20 each. Monkeys were gambolling in the trees near the church. The church was used until Christ Church Malacca in the Dutch Square was completed and consecrated in 1753 CE. St.Paul’s Church was subsequently deconsecrated and used as a powder magazine by the Dutch and the subsequent colonial occupants, the British.
Inside the ruins, several tombstones lean against the walls. The Straits of Malacca can be glimpsed in the far distance from the hilltop. The open grave of St.Francis Xavier, protected by a cage, is another interesting spot in the ruins. A white statue of St.Francis Xavier, dating from 1953 CE, greets us in front of the ruins. The statue was missing its right hand, and we were told that lightning struck it down. We climbed down the hill to the Sultanate Palace Museum, right next to A Famosa.
Plan your Trip
- Construction dates: A Fomosa: 1512 CE; St.Paul’s Church: 1566 CE to 1590 CE
- Timings: 24 h
- Entry fees: None
- Getting there: Walk/Grab/Trishaw (beca)
- Note: There is very little shade in the enclosure around A Famosa. If you’re visiting the ruins around midday, be sure to bring an umbrella and stay hydrated. The trek up the hill is quite steep. There are no shops to buy water or drinks until you reach the top. So, carry adequate water. Do not carry any food or drink openly, as there are plenty of monkeys on this hill. Although they kept to themselves largely, food may draw them to you and make them aggressive.
The Malacca Sultanate Palace Museum and Hang Tuah Legend
The Malacca Sultanate Palace Museum is a faithful replica of the royal palace of Sultan Mansur Shah, the last ruler of Malacca. The plan of the palace is based on the information recorded in the Malay Annals. It is made entirely of wood, including the pegs (instead of iron nails) used for fastening and joinery.
The museum has three floors. Galleries along the outer corridors showcase the diverse architectural styles of the palace, representative of Malaysia’s various regions. Human figures dressed in traditional attire represent the diverse tribes and cultures that inhabit Malaysia. One of the floors has a replica of the Sultan’s chambers and many artefacts from the Sultanate period. Dioramas represent various scenes from the Malaccan Sultanate times.
The legend of the laksamana (Admiral in Malay) Hang Tuah features prominently in one of the galleries. Hikayat Hang Tuah, dating from the 17th century CE, seems to be a beloved work of literature. Themes such as adventure, romance, friendship, betrayal, and the rise of the underdog feature prominently. Interestingly, the English word amok is derived from the Malay term mengamok. Mengamok refers to a frenzied and uncontrollable outburst or charge.
The episode of Hang Jebat, a childhood friend of Hang Tuah, running amok when he mistakenly believes Hang Tuah to have been executed, is a famous chapter from this work of literature. Hang Tuah’s executioner is the Sultan’s prime minister. The prime minister rightly recognises the conspiracy hatched by fellow nobles and hides Hang Tuah instead. Hang Tuah is brought back at the Sultan’s request, when other attempts fail, to stop his friend’s frenzied attacks. After an intense seven-day-long duel, Hang Tuah slays Hang Jebat. This tragic tale of friendship torn between loyalty and the duty to uphold the Sultan’s justice has a timeless and universal appeal.
Plan your Trip
- Construction date: 1984 CE to 1986 CE
- Timings: 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM (closed from 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM on Friday and all day on Monday)
- Last entry: 4:30 PM
- Entry fees (Adults > 12 years): Malaysian: 10 RM; Non-Malaysian: 20 RM
- Getting there: Walk/Grab/Trishaw (beca)
- Note: Footwear is not allowed inside the museum. Except for vending machines, there are no options for food or drink. Plan accordingly to stay hydrated. Please visit https://perzim.gov.my/harga-tiket/ for the latest information on timings and entry fees.
This brings us to the end of the first part of our 2-part blog on Malacca.
Prasanna Vasudevan
Prasanna is the Primary Writer and Technical Expert behind the posts. He is responsible for the detailed facts, historical context, and logistical breakdowns. He has a deep love for mountains, history, nature, and is the family's expert packer.
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