Immersive Agra: 3-Day Agra Itinerary for an Unmatched Experience

We finally scratched Agra off our travel list after years of putting it off. The Taj Mahal, a landmark we couldn’t ignore any longer in the land of India, became the perfect excuse for an anniversary getaway. Off to Agra we went. So here’s our Agra itinerary!

Day 1 of Agra itinerary

The Taj Mahal

Getting there

Our trip started with a visit to the Taj Mahal. We booked our tickets online and got to the East Gate entrance.

• Only the electric buggies of the ADA are allowed to go from the parking of the East Gate to the actual entrance to the Taj. The fee is INR 30 per passenger per trip.
• All the other local electric auto rickshaws would drop you off between 100 m to 200 m away from the entrance and you would have to walk the remaining distance.
• Be at the entrance to the Taj before 6:00 AM. This way, you will get good views before the venue becomes crowded.
• Taj is closed to visitors on Fridays.
• There are two tickets to be bought. One for the entrance to the Taj complex and the other to visit the actual mausoleum inside the Taj.

Other things to note

Both tickets allow one to remain inside the Taj for a maximum of 3 hours after which additional charges would apply. In the Taj as well, as in most of the ASI-administrated monuments, it is forbidden to bring weapons, explosives, tobacco, e-cigarettes and liquor. You can see the complete list here. It is best to not carry anything else other than your wallet, phone, camera and a water bottle.

The checking at the entrance is quite intensive and any additional articles would only increase the time taken to be allowed into the Taj.

We spent a while taking in the views of the Taj from the exterior before we made our way to the mausoleum. It is mandatory to cover one’s footwear when entering the mausoleum. Footwear covers were being sold in the mausoleum area for INR 10 a piece.

The glorious Taj

It was still dark as the sun was yet to rise, when we entered the Taj.

As the sun rose over the Yamuna river, the Taj’s appearance took on a range of hues from a deep russet, baby pink, followed by golden tones with the rising sun until the full magnificence of the white marble and the gleaming pietre dure work on the exterior were fully visible in the morning sun.

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The mausoleum has only the cenotaphs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal whereas the actual internment is in an underground burial chamber.

Witnessing the Taj Mahal at sunrise was a breathtaking experience. The interplay of light and flawless marble created a scene of unparalleled beauty. We spent a significant amount of time lost in its grandeur, each detail a testament to the love story it embodies.

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By the time we were ready to bid goodbye to the Taj about 2 hours from when we set foot there first, the crowds had swelled making us realize the value of reaching there early in the morning.

We returned to our stay and rested for a while before finishing up lunch and heading out again to the Agra Fort.

Agra Fort

Getting there

• Tickets to visit the Agra Fort can be booked online as well and the same prohibitions on the items that cannot be carried into the Taj apply here as well.
• Next to the entrance, near the ticketing office is a cloak room where you can leave your belongings which wouldn’t be allowed into the fort and come back for them on your way out.

The fort

The Agra Fort is locally known as the Lal Qila (Red Fort), perhaps due to its red sandstone exterior. The fort has been a witness to the rise and fall of the Mughal empire, occupation by the Marathas and finally the British.

The interiors of the fort show the zenith of sandstone that the artisans reached under Akbar’s patronship and a gradual transition of this craftsmanship to working with marble, as Shah Jahan ascended to the throne and the exquisite parchinkari work that is on show in the Muthamman Burj.

The fort also has some unique artifacts and was the venue of some key moments from the Mughal empire.

A monolithic stone tank thought to be the bathtub of the emperor Jehangir, a wooden gate from the Ghaznavid empire in present-day Afghanistan falsely claimed by the British as salvaged from the pillaging of Somnath temple, the remains of the 80 ft golden chain of justice with 60 bells instituted by Jehangir to ensure equal access to justice for all citizens and the site of Shah Jahan’s imprisonment and eventual death – the Muthamman Burj.

Other interesting structures in the fort complex are the courtyard gardens called the Angoori Bagh and a Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors), which has glass polished to a mirror finish.

This was reputedly imported from Haleb in present-day Syria, now known as Aleppo.

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After spending quite a bit of time at the fort, we made our way to the last stop for the day – a structure affectionately known as the ‘Baby Taj.’

Itimad Ud Daulah – Baby Taj

The Itimad-ud-Daulah tomb, known as the Baby Taj, served as a prototype for the iconic Taj Mahal.

Commissioned by Nur Jahan, wife of Emperor Jahangir, it commemorates her father, Mirza Ghiyas Beg, who migrated from Tehran to India. Ghiyas, later titled Itimad-ud-Daula by Emperor Akbar, overcame adversity, and his daughter, Mehrunnisa (Nur Jahan), received an exceptional education before marrying Jahangir in 1611.

Ghiyas passed away in 1622, and the tomb, constructed between 1622 and 1628, features an entrance arch, crenellated walls, and octagonal towers with chattris. Strict regulations forbid bringing certain items, but a cloakroom facilitates their deposition.

The tomb, raised amid gardens, exhibits a square plan with arches, jaalis, and chajjas on each side. Notable is the absence of a conventional dome, replaced by a square baradari adorned with Iranian motifs in semi-precious stones. Inside, visitors wear shoe covers to admire the intricate pietre dure work on murals, a testament to the artisans’ skill.

The chamber houses cenotaphs of Ghiyas and his wife, embellished with parchinkari. The mausoleum stands as a testament to a daughter’s love for her parents, leaving us with enduring images of exquisite craftsmanship.

Day 2 of Agra itinerary

Fatehpur Sikri

We visited the erstwhile Mughal capital, Fatehpur Sikhri. This town was founded by Akbar in 1571 and its namesake Sikri was also the birthplace of Akbar’s successor Jahangir. There are CNG buses plying from the parking lot to the Fatehpur Sikhri complex. You are likely to be mobbed by touts and self-proclaimed guides. It is probably better to read-up on your own before you visit. We saw these ‘guides’ share misinformation to hapless guests who hired their services.

There are two complexes – the Palace complex and a short walk away, the Jama Masjid complex. The buses that return you to the parking start from the exit of the Palace complex. You can book the entry tickets to Fatehpur Sikhri online.

An important monument in the Palace complex are the Panch Mahal – a 5-storied structure, with each upper storey smaller than the immediate lower one. The uppermost storey is a single chhatri. The total number of the columns in this structure is 176.

The palace complex

There were a group of buildings in the Palace complex located in the vicinity of the Panch Mahal.

These were –

• The Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of public audience), Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of private audience, with a central column atop which the emperor Akbar sat in a balcony whilst surrounded by his courtier noblemen),
• Turkish Sultana’s house, Ibadat Khana (House of worship for the followers of Din-e-Ilaahi, a faith that Akbar created based on elements from other faiths),
• Anup Talao (an ornamental platform in the middle of an artificial stepped pond for recreational performances by artists, including the famed Tansen), and the Astrologer’s seat (which has intricately carved sandstone elements inspired from Western Indian Jain temples’ marble ornamentation).

The next structure was the Jodha Bai Mahal.

It was the residence of Akbar’s wife of Rajput origin – Mariam-uz-Zamani, popularly known as ‘Jodha Bai’.

Centered around a courtyard, it has both Rajput influences in the architectural elements as well as Mughal elements of symmetry. There are niches in this complex to allow the queen and her companions to worship their familial deities.

The courtyard also has a single planter at the center for a holy basil plant, important for daily worship rituals of Hindus. There was one structure, which we were told was a separate kitchen for Jodha Bai. This was for cooking the vegetarian dishes for her consumption, separated from the usual non-vegetarian Mughal fare.

We strolled to the house of Birbal, one of Akbar’s most famous courtiers renowned for his wit and wisdom. We then started exploring the Palace complex a little bit more and reached the exit that led to the Jama Masjid complex.

Buland Darwaza

The Jama Masjid complex has the tomb of the Sufi saint Salim Chishti, in the courtyard. Beware of touts who offer to guard your footwear and later force you to offer a chadar (a sheet of cloth, used as a protective wrapping around the face/upper body) at the saint’s tomb. We walked around the passageways surrounding the courtyard and were amazed at the grandeur of the murals, parchinkari work and the sandstone carvings.

We then reached the most famous Mughal gateway in India – the Buland Darwaza or the Door of Victory. Akbar commissioned this gateway to commemorate his victory in the military conquest of Gujarat.

It is considered the tallest gateway in the world. This gateway is topped by chhatris – elements of Rajput architecture. The gateway functions as the main entrance to the Jama Masjid.

Sikandra

Sikandra is the site of Akbar’s mausoleum and about a kilometer away, lies the mausoleum Jodha Bai. The tomb was built by Akbar’s son Jahangir. We entered the complex through the magnificent South gate. Its walls were richly inlaid in white marble contrasting with the sandstone walls, topped by chhatris and minarets. This reminded us of the Taj’s entrance. We saw a couple of peacocks strolling about the lawns surrounding the tomb.

The central complex has a circumferential gallery which has three pathways extending outwards, centered on the cenotaph. There is a barrel vault at the end of each of these pathways.

One of them had richly coloured murals of Iranian motifs, the hallmark of the Lodhi dynasty’s decorative style.

We were beckoned into the mausoleum where restoration work was going on. They were trying to recover from the ravages of time and actions such as the Jats’ raid on the mausoleum.

The vaulted ceiling and walls were richly decorated in deep blues, bright whites, vibrant sienna and ochres. We couldn’t take our eyes off the shimmering golden calligraphy.

We saw the underground burial chamber and came to know that it is one of the few tombs that has no cenotaph on the top level. There is only the burial chamber with the actual tomb is present. On the way out, we saw many monkeys. They were making their way deeper into the lawns surrounding the tomb with the setting sun providing a tranquil backdrop.

We bid farewell to this majestic tomb and got back to the hotel for some tea before dinner and rest.

Day 3 of Agra itinerary

Chini ka Rauza

The Tomb of Shukrullah Shirazi, popularly known as the Chini ka Rauza was our first stop for the day. It commemorates the life of Shirazi, born in Iran, who served in the Safavid court until his patron’s fall from favor.

Following emigration to India, Shirazi rose through Mughal ranks. He earned the title ‘Afzal Khan’ and became the deputy governor of Lahore province.

Adept in administration, he later became prime minister under Emperor Shah Jahan. Shirazi, educated in various disciplines, passed away at 70 and was interred here.

The mausoleum, constructed during his lifetime, showcases impressive tilework, although much has been lost to time and conflict.

The tomb’s caretaker guided visitors to the richly painted interior, explaining that the actual burial chambers are subterranean. Despite its historical significance, the mausoleum is less frequented by tourists.

Read more about our visit to Chini ka Rauza here.

The compound offers views of the Yamuna River and the Kala Gumbaz, another structure attributed to Afzal Khan. The visit revealed a connection to the past, contrasting with the popular tourist sites in the area.

Taj Nature Walk

This seems to be a private property with some vantage points offering picturesque views of the Taj. Strangely and sadly, cameras are forbidden at this venue. So we had no choice but to leave ours at the gate! The place is still being developed and has a long walking trail that winds up and down sloping terrain. Every now and then, the Taj offers a surprise glimpse from viewpoints marked with stone tablets.

The space also has a couple of play areas for kids but they could definitely use some maintenance. We were told that it’s a good spot for birdwatching. We could only spot the abundant parakeets, quarreling mynahs and petronias with our untrained eyes.

And with that, our trip to Agra came to a close! What an amazing trip indeed!